The Best Of Greece
Day 1 ARRIVE IN ATHENS, GREECE Check into your hotel. The rest of the day is free for you to start exploring the Greek capital with the help of the CosmosGO app. Later, meet your Local Host.
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Day 2 ATHENS A day to relax and discover Athens at leisure. In the evening, free time to enjoy the lively atmosphere of the tavernas and nightclubs in the old Plaka district with its narrow streets and sound of bouzouki music. (B)
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Day 3 ATHENS–CORINTH–NAUPLIA Join the included guided tour of Athens, featuring the highlights of this ancient capital with a visit to the Acropolis. Cross the Corinth canal, a project conceived in ancient Greece but only completed in 1893, and head for the coast to the picturesque seaside town of Nauplia.
Today’s Distance: 90 mi/ 145 km (B)
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Day 4 NAUPLIA–EPIDAURUS–MYCENAE–SPARTA This morning, stop in Epidaurus, located in the hilly countryside dotted with pine trees and oleanders. In this magnificent setting, visit the ancient open-air theatre, which can still seat 14,000 spectators. Later, enjoy the included guided excursion to the archaeological site and museum of Mycenae, with the imposing ruins of the great city that dominated the eastern Mediterranean world from the 15th to the 12th century B.C. It played a vital role in the development of classical Greek culture and is linked to the Homeric epics, the Iliad and the Odyssey. Travel into the Peloponnese to Sparta, where history hangs between reality and legend.
Today’s Distance: 126 mi/ 202 km (B,D)
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Day 5 SPARTA–MYSTRA–OLYMPIA Enjoy the included visit of the medieval Byzantine citadel of Mystra, at one time known as the “Florence of the East.” Before arriving in Olympia, visit an olive oil museum.
Today’s Distance: 99 mi/ 160 km (B,D)
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Day 6 OLYMPIA–PATRAS–DELPHI Explore Olympia, where the athletes of antiquity performed as a tribute to the king of deities, Zeus. Spend free time in this pretty town or join an optional excursion to explore this birthplace of the first Olympic Games. Later, drive north to Patras, the capital of the Peloponnese and the west coast’s largest port. Continue by crossing the spectacular Rion-Antirion bridge, through the picturesque fishing villages along the south coast of the mainland to legendary Delphi.
Today’s Distance: 134 mi/ 215km (B)
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Day 7 DELPHI–KALAMBAKA Enjoy free time in town or join an optional morning sightseeing tour of the archaeological site in Delphi, where the oracle of Apollo spoke in the omphalos, the 'navel of the world'. Blending harmoniously with the superb landscape and charged with sacred meaning, Delphi in the 6th century B.C. was indeed the religious hub and symbol of unity of the ancient Greek world. On to Kalambaka.
Today’s Distance: 143 mi/ 230 km (B,D)
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Day 8 KALAMBAKA–METEORA–ATHENS Discover Meteora, a cluster of spectacular Christian-Orthodox monasteries perched in an unforgettable manner on a set of rising rock formations. They were originally built by hermit monks living in caves carved into the rocks. Your included visit is certainly the day’s highlight. Continue south to Athens.
Today’s Distance: 224 mi/ 360 km (B)
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Day 9 ATHENS Spend a full day at leisure exploring the unseen parts of the city, doing last-minute shopping, or visiting a museum. Tonight, it's all Greek with an optional dinner of local specialties served to the sound of bouzouki and the rhythmic dance moves of sirtaki. (B)
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Day 10 ATHENS Your vacation ends with breakfast this morning. (B)
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Olympia, Greece
Olympia is the great Panhellenic sanctuary. The site of ancient Olympia is situated at the foot of wooded Mount Kronos in an area of gentle hills; excavations began in 1875 and are considered one of archaeology’s great achievements. A direct consequence was the revival of Olympic Games by Baron Pierre de Coubertin; the first modern games were held in Athens in 1896. Today, visitors to Olympia are overwhelmed by the impact of ancient remains and their significance. The site’s most important excavations include numerous monuments, such as Temple of Zeus in the Sacred Precinct, Treasuries, and Stadium. There is an excellent Archaeological Museum with a large collection of bronzes, pottery and sculptures unearthed during the excavations.
Athens
Even though you've probably come here to see the "glory that was Greece," perhaps best symbolized by the Parthenon and the superb statues and vases in the National Archaeological Museum, allow some time to make haste slowly in Athens. Your best moments may come sitting at a small cafe, sipping a tiny cup of the sweet sludge that the Greeks call coffee, or getting hopelessly lost in the Plaka -- only to find yourself in the shady courtyard of an old church, or suddenly face to face with an ancient monument you never knew existed. With only a little advance planning, you can find a good hotel here, eat well in convivial restaurants, enjoy local customs such as the refreshing afternoon siesta and the leisurely evening volta (promenade or stroll) -- and leave Athens planning to return, as the Greeks say, tou chronou (next year).
Excursions
Argolis – Mycenean & Epidavros Adventure w/lunch - 9 hours
Argolis – Mycenean & Epidavros Adventure w/lunch - 9 hours
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
We begin this exiting tour with a scenic drive along the Saronic Gulf to the Corinth Canal, which connects the Aegean Sea to the Ionian Sea After a short stop we drive on to Mycenae, the Homeric city of the Atreides. Visit the Lions Gate, the Cyclopean Walls and the famous Royal Tombs of King Agamemnon. Continue to Nafplion through the fertile plain of Argolis. The picturesque town nestling at the foot of a cliff crowned by the mighty ramparts of the Palamidi Fortress was the first capital of Greece. After lunch in Mycenae, leave for in the hinterland of Epidavros to visit the sanctuary of Asklepios, the most brilliant centre of healing in the ancient world and the 4th century theatre is one of the most perfect and the best preserved of the ancient Greek theatres.
Duration: approx: 9 hours
Notes:
• Sun protection is recommended
• Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps is recommended
• Bottle of water - recommended
Athens at a Glance - 3 hours
Athens at a Glance - 3 hours
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
Take a short drive to Athens, the cradle of European civilization. For twenty-five centuries, the panorama of this city is dominated by the rock of the Acropolis. Leave your vehicle at the foot of the rock and follow your guide uphill to visit the Acropolis and see the principal buildings: the Propylaia, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion and the Parthenon Temple.
During your visit, you will also have some free time to enjoy the magnificent view and take some photos. Continue on with a panoramic tour of the city where you will view the Olympieion (the Temple of Olympian Zeus) from the 6th Century BC, one of the largest Corinthian style temples in Greek history and Hadrian's Arch (2nd Century AD) which divided the Greek city from Hadrian's new Roman city. Arriving at Syntagma Square, see the Royal Palace, built for Otto I of Bavaria and the present-day Parliament.
In front of the Palace stands the Monument of the Unknown Soldier where two soldiers (Evzoni) stand guard continuously. Finally visit the Stadium, which stands on the site of the Ancient Stadium, laid out under Lycurgus in the 4th Century BC and rebuilt in 1896 on its original plan for the modern Olympic Games.
Notes:
- Sun protection indispensable
- Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps
- Bottle of water recommended
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Athens - Enlightening Classical Athens Tour w/ lunch - 6 hours
Athens - Enlightening Classical Athens Tour w/ lunch - 6 hours
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
We begin our exciting tour with a visit to the glamorous Acropolis, where we admire one of the world's masterpieces, the eternal Parthenon. The marble monuments and temples built in the classical times remind us that the Acropolis is more than the living history of Greece: it is the western world's prototype of aesthetics.
Continue with the highlights of historical and modern Athens. Enjoy the most famous historical spots in Athens including the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded by the colourful Evzones, the ex-Royal Palace and the Panathenaikon Stadium, where the first Olympic Games of modern times were held, and admire the unique perspective of the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Hadrian's' Arch. Enjoy lunch at a restaurant in Plaka (old part of Athens).
In the afternoon (or even before lunch), continue with a visit to one of the following of your choice:
- The National Archaeological Museum: This is the most important archaeological museum in Greece and one of the richest in the world concerning ancient Greek art. The Ancient Agora: At the foot of the Acropolis is the archaeological site of the ancient Agora. The Agora was the heart of ancient Athens; the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social activity; the religious and cultural centre and the seat of justice.
- The Cycladic Arts Museum: A private museum founded ten years ago in order to present the art that was created in the Cycladic islands in the central Aegean Sea during the 3rd and 2nd millenniums BC. The sculptures on display are extremely interesting, sophisticated and modern for their time.
- The Benaki Museum: Visit the outstanding Benaki Museum, housed in an elegant neoclassical mansion and travel through the millennia of Greek History starting from the depths of prehistory to the 20th century.
Notes:
- Benaki Museum and Cycladic Museum will remain closed on Tuesdays
- Sun protection is recommended
- Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps is recommended
- Bottle of water - recommended
Duration: Approx. 6 hours
Athens - Enchanting Cape Sounion at Sunset with dinner - 6 hours
Athens - Enchanting Cape Sounion at Sunset with dinner - 6 hours
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
Scenic drive (70km/43miles) along the coastal road known as "the Riviera of Attica" to Cape Sounion. Enjoy the splendid view of the Saronic Gulf. Here stands the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon, built near the edge of the cliff, one of the most beautiful monuments of the classical times to have survived to the present day. According to Mythology, Poseidon had his palace in the depths of the sea and his temple on a windswept rock rising above the Aegean Sea.
Enjoy the most enchanting at sunset before your transfer to the Ithaki Restaurant located on the waterfront of Vouliagmeni.
Enjoy a lovely dinner at the waterfront restaurant, Ithaki overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay and the sparkling Saronic Gulf, Ithaki is probably the best outdoor sea viewpoint of Attica. A typical Greek fishing boat at the entrance, full of crushed ice, fresh fish and lobsters of all sizes give you a hint that you are not here for steaks, although they are available. The elegant, exclusive seaside restaurant is built amphitheatrically on varying levels in a way to secure privacy and a magnificent view of the bay. The Ithaki cuisine is based mainly on traditional Greek recipes and gives priority to seafood delicacies and fresh fish. Soft piano music and songs are entertaining the guests during the whole evening. Greek hospitality and excellent service are priority at the Ithaki, ensuring clients' satisfaction!
Notes:
- Sun protection is recommended
- Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps is recommended
- Bottle of water - recommended
Duration: Approx. 6 1/2 hours
Athens - The Athenian Riviera & the Temple of Poseidon - 4 hours
Athens - The Athenian Riviera & the Temple of Poseidon - 4 hours
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
Scenic drive (70km/43miles) along the coastal road known as "the Riviera of Attica", which affords a splendid view of the Saronic Gulf, to Cape Sounion the southern-most point of the entire peninsula of Aemos (Balkans). Here stand the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon, built near the edge of the cliff, one of the most beautiful monuments of the classical times to have survived to the present day. According to Mythology, Poseidon had his palace in the depths of the sea and his temple on a windswept rock rising above the Aegean Sea.
This tour is most enchanting at sunset!
Notes:
- Sun protection is recommended
- Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps is recommended
- Bottle of water - recommended
Duration: Approx. 4 hours
Delphi – History & the Oracle w/lunch - Full Day Tour
Delphi – History & the Oracle w/lunch - Full Day Tour
In the morning, you will be met by your English-speaking guide upon disembarkation from the cruise ship to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, you will be transferred back to the ship.
Enjoy a scenic drive to Delphi via the National Highway passing through the spectacular sites of Boetia, Thebes and Levadia.
Delphi is by common consent the most spectacularly beautiful ancient site in Greece and the one, which, even to the uninitiated, most vividly evokes the Classical Past. In antiquity Delphi was regarded as the centre of the world (omphalos of the earth) and to this, and its oracle, the place owed its prestige, which extended far beyond the Greek world.
Our visit to Delphi is divided into three parts: the Sanctuary of Apollo with the Stadion; the Castalian spring and the Sanctuary of Athena at Marmaria (from above as it is a steep ragged climb to access it); and the Museum.
Enjoy lunch at a traditional local restaurant. En route to Athens, there will be a short stop at the picturesque mountain village of Arachova. The village is famous for its attractive hand-woven carpets and rugs as well as for its wine and cheese.
In the early evening return to Athens.
Notes:
• Sun protection indispensable
• Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps
• Bottle of water recommended
Athens - Ancient Corinth Tour - 4.5 hours
Athens - Ancient Corinth Tour - 4.5 hours
In the morning, you will be met by your English-speaking guide upon disembarkation from the cruise ship to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, you will be transferred back to the ship.
Departure for the excursion to Corinth and Cenchreae, from the where St. Paul left for Ephesus. Stop to view the Corinth Canal connecting the Aegean with the Ionian Sea. Ancient Corinth is sited inland at the foot of Mount Acrocorinth. The City’s ‘Long Wall’ began from the summit of the mountain, encompassed the city and ended at the port of Lechaio, which was the artificial harbor built on the shore of the Gulf of Corinth.
In the area of the city itself, the ruins are those of its Agora (Forum) as it was in the days of the Romans in the 1st century AD. On the northern side of the agora, seven of the thirty-eight columns of the Ancient Temple of Apollo (6th century BC) still stand. To the northeast of the Agora are the remains of the Theater and the Roman Odeon. Among the ruins of the Roman Forum, the Bema can be seen single structure from where St. Paul preached to the Corinthians. Corinth was the city where St. Paul created one of the biggest Christian communities in Europe. A visit to the Museum is also included as well as a stop at the small port of Lechaio, where Paul disembarked.
Duration: Approximately 4½ hours
Notes:
• Sun protection is recommended
• Comfortable non-slip shoes for uneven cobble or marble streets/steps is recommended
• Bottle of water - recommended
Athens - Jewish History Tour - Half Day Tour approx 4 hours
Athens - Jewish History Tour - Half Day Tour approx 4 hours
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
Take a short drive to the city of Athens, the cradle of the European civilization. For twenty-five centuries, the panorama of this city is dominated by the rock of the Acropolis. Leave your vehicle at the foot of the rock and follow your guide uphill to visit the Acropolis and see the principal buildings: the Propylaia, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion and the Parthenon Temple. During your visit, you will also have some free time to enjoy the magnificent view and take some photos.
Continue on with a panoramic tour of the city where you will view the Olympieion (the Temple of Olympian Zeus) from the 6th Century BC, one of the largest Corinthian style temples in Greek history and Hadrian’s Arch (2nd Century AD) which divided the Greek city from Hadrian’s new Roman city. Arriving at Syntagma Square, see the Royal Palace, built for Otto I of Bavaria and the present-day Parliament. In front of the Palace stands the Monument of the Unknown Soldier where two soldiers (Evzoni) stand guard continuously. Finally visit the Stadium, which stands on the site of the Ancient Stadium, laid out under Lycurgus in the 4th Century BC and rebuilt in 1896 on its original plan for the modern Olympic Games.
We continue onward with a visit to the Jewish Museum of Athens. The Museum was founded in 1977 in order to collect, conserve, research and exhibit the material evidence of 2300 years of Jewish life in Greece. Its collection, which is continuously enriched, consists of seven and a half thousand original artifacts, photographs, documents and archives, and includes diverse material pertaining to the domestic and religious life, as well as the historical course of the Greek Jews.
The permanent exhibition illustrates subject areas such as the synagogue, the Jewish Holidays, traditional costumes, the Holocaust, the cycle of life and more.
It is recommended that guests wear flat, comfortable walking shoes.
Opening hours of the Jewish Museum: Daily 09:30-14:30
Sunday 10:00-14:00
Saturday: closed
Athens - The Acropolis & a walking tour of the Plaka w/lunch - Full Day tour
Athens - The Acropolis & a walking tour of the Plaka w/lunch - Full Day tour
Guests will be met by our English speaking guide to commence the tour. Upon completion of the tour, transfer will be provided back to the ship.
Take a short drive to Athens, the cradle of the European civilization. For twenty-five centuries, the panorama of this city is dominated by the rock of the Acropolis. Leave your vehicle at the foot of the rock and follow your guide uphill to visit the Acropolis and see the principal buildings: the Propylaia, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion and the Parthenon Temple. During your visit, you will also have some free time to enjoy the magnificent view and take some photos.
Enjoy a walking tour the wonderful alleys of the Plaka area. Following the Ermou Street, the most famous shopping street which begins in the Syntagma square, and going down south, you will arrive in the neighbourhood of Plaka.
The neighborhood is an historic center, full of beautiful buildings, Byzantine churches, little touristy shops, cafe, bars and taverns (Greek restaurants). One will surely enjoy walking around in the small streets of Plaka Monastiraki - As you near the point where Adrianou and Ayiou Philippou Streets meet, you will have the impression that you are entering a melting pot of sound; all kinds of music can be heard simultaneously from the loud-speakers of record shops and street-vendors selling second-hand records. Shopping or simply walking around in Monastiraki is an experience not to be missed. You will be amazed by the variety and the quality of the things sold in this busy market.
Notes:
It is recommended that guests wear flat, comfortable walking shoes.
Flavors of Athens - 5 hours
Flavors of Athens - 5 hours
Highlights/Description:
• Explore the streets of Athens and visit some of the best food stores
• Sample a selection of sweet and savory local delicacies
• Enjoy a cup of Greek coffee
• Visit the city's central food market
• Learn about the local food culture and gastronomy
• Private and possible to customize on the way
Tantalize your taste buds and gain insights into Greek gastronomy with this delicious private tour. Learn all about the tastes Athenians cherish and sample appetizing local treats. Discover small shops, explore the city's central food market and find out for yourself what the local food culture is really like.
Tour Duration: 4-5 Hours
Tour can operate: Morning or Afternoon
Wheelchair Accessible: No
Physical Activity Level: Moderate
Inclusions:
- Licensed, English-speaking foodie guide
- Applicable taxes
Not Included:
- Transfers
- Meals, unless otherwise noted
- Gratuities
- Personal expenses
Jewish Tour in Athens - 5 hours
Jewish Tour in Athens - 5 hours
Highlights/Description:
Discover the long history of Greece together with its Jewish community’s history and visit the most important Jewish sites on this private tour.
Your tour begins with a visit the Athens Jewish Museum to enjoy a guided tour of the museum's collections.
Continuing we will descend to the Ancient Agora, where an ancient Synagogue is thought to date from the 3rd century CE. On the way you will enjoy a stop at the the Cathedral at the statue of Archbishop Damaskinos.
We will continue walking into the heart of the city visiting the flea market at Avissinias Square which is also called "Yousouroum" after an influential Greek Jew.
We will continue our visit to the New Holocaust monument and the Beth Shalom Synagogue in the Thission area.
You may choose to end your tour with lunch at Gostijo, the only Kosher restaurant in Athens.
Tour Duration: 5 Hours
Tour can operate: Morning
Wheelchair Accessible: No
Physical Activity Level: Light
Inclusions:
- Licensed, English-speaking guide
- Entrance Fees
- Applicable taxes
Not Included:
- Transfers
- Meals, unless otherwise noted
- Gratuities
- Personal expenses
Athens the Acropolis and the New Acropolis Museum approx 4 hours
Athens the Acropolis and the New Acropolis Museum approx 4 hours
Join us on this tour of Athens and learn the history of one of the greatest cities of the ancient world and most vibrant cities of Europe If this is your first time visiting Athens this is the ideal way experiencing as city rich in history and culture. Our enthusiastic licensed guides will narrate the significance of all the landmarks and sites and bridge the past with present, while you enjoy your leisurely panoramic drive through the city of Athens.
The next stop on the tour is the Acropolis the most important ancient site in the Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon positioned high above and visible from almost every part of the city. You will feel uplifted high above the city as you marvel and stand amongst this everlasting achievements of ancient Greece: The Parthenon, the Propylaia, the Temple of Apteros Nike (Wingless Victory) and the Erechtheum, with its classical stone draped maidens, the Caryatids.
The Acropolis is the prelude to the final visit on the tour the Acropolis museum, where the final chapter of the tour will be told and your short odyssey will end. The monuments of the Acropolis have withstood the ravages of past centuries, both of ancient times and throughout the middle ages. These circumstances cultivated the need and conception of the Acropolis museum. One museum that would house and conserve the invaluable Greek artifacts, where eventually the Parthenon sculptures will be reunited.
Bits & Bites Athens street food walking tour approx 3 hours
Bits & Bites Athens street food walking tour approx 3 hours
Start on a walking tour of the local markets: The senses of taste and smell are so powerful that Greece will intoxicate you and create a mystical experience. Take a look, sniff, and taste the vegetable, meat, and fish markets of Athens. Try the traditional Greek tastes: Greek sweets, koulouri, sausages, olive oil, olives, cheeses, rusks, Greek alcohol (wine, ouzo), and spices and herbs.
-Ariston (for tyropitta)
-Zisis, traditional small fish bites in a paper cone
-Bairaktaris Souvlaki
-Varvakios central food and spice market, then visit Ouzeri for ouzo-meze
-Traditional honey dough bites in Lukumades
-Brettos, for a shot glass of masticha,
-Time permitting, go for a Greek coffee at Café Melina in Plaka
The program and shops visited are indicative and may differ on the day depending on opening hours
Available May to October, morning to mid-afternoon*
Inclusions: Licensed English-speaking guide, Metro Tickets, Taxes
Exclusions: Gratuities, Personal expenses, anything not mentioned above, Snacks or meals
Tips: Wear flat, comfortable walking shoes a hat & plenty of sunscreen. Don’t eat before the tour!
Acropolis & Plaka walking tour approx 3 hours
Acropolis & Plaka walking tour approx 3 hours
Start this fascinating tour with a visit to the magnificent Acropolis, and admire the world's masterpieces, the Temple of Apteros Nike, the Erechtheum and the eternal Parthenon. The marble monuments and temples built in the classical times remind us that the Acropolis is more than the living history of Greece: it is the western world's prototype of aesthetics. After the visit of the Acropolis, enjoy a walking tour the wonderful alleys of the old Plaka area, one of the most beautiful neighbourhoods of Athens. Its architecture is mostly neoclassical and dating from King Otto’s time. Plaka and the Parliament were the only composites of the city of Athens when it first became a capital in 1834. The neighbourhood is an historic centre, full of beautiful buildings, Byzantine churches, little shops, cafe, bars and taverns.
Inclusions: Licensed English-speaking guide / Entrance fees to the Acropolis /Taxes
Exclusions: Gratuities / Personal expenses/ anything not mentioned above
Tips: Not recommended for those with walking / health difficulties
Wear flat, comfortable walking shoes & carry a cold bottle of water with you on hot days. In the summer, wear a hat and plenty of sunscreen.
Athens Scavenger Hunt - 4 hours
Athens Scavenger Hunt - 4 hours
Highlights/Description:
- Discover Athens in a fun way
- Learn about contemporary Athens
- View significant landmarks and sights
- Visit local shops
- Enjoy panoramic vistas
- Savor drinks and snacks that Athenians cherish
- Interact with locals
The ultimate treasure hunt! Follow the directions, hunt for, and solve clues, and view fascinating landmarks and lesser-known jewels in a fun way. Interact with locals, learn about our way of life, taste treats and drinks that locals cherish, and discover our city most in an exciting and enticing way. The objective of the game is to beat other groups of your fellow travelers by gaining more points than them. Points are won by following simple, yet cunning, instructions and solving several clues and challenges specially designed for travelers that are new to our city. Be the first team to complete the tasks and you will triumph!
Tour Duration: 4 hours
Tour can operate: Morning or Afternoon
Wheelchair Accessible: No
Physical Activity Level: Moderate
Inclusions:
- English-Speaking game moderator
- Entrance fees
- Applicable taxes
Not Included:
- Transfers
- Meals, unless otherwise noted
- Gratuities
- Personal expenses